A dimly lit interior with a roaring fire blazing in the reception room invites diners to a cozy evening. Behind the small bar, attractive waitstaff flash friendly smiles while well-heeled patrons, who all seem to know each other, mingle easily. A long, high-ceilinged room with earth-toned walls capped by wooden beams hums with lively conversation beyond the bar.Chef Nick Badovinus of Fireside Pies fame has achieved another culinary triumph by focusing on the ingredients and limiting the menu to one page of inventive dishes. Start out with the barbecued quail, drizzled in tangy brown sauce and served warm over a bed of slaw nestled in a golden fried onion ring. Entrees include the spit-fired cut spare ribs with green apple-hoisin sauce; the meat so tender, it melts off the bone. Pair with side dishes such as blue cheese polenta or deep-dish macaroni casserole.
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