Frank Ma South

In Short
A strip mall off Briarcliff is a peculiar setting for Chinese powerhouse Frank Ma's latest (and likely last) creation, but the lack of signage, florescent glow and awkward dual-dining rooms are all quickly forgiven. Service descends at a frantic-yet-friendly pace, unloading hoards of authentic Chinese perfection for prices that make one wonder how expensive Pan Asian palaces stay in business. Cementing the idea that Ma has a knack for making simple taste like a million bucks, the scallion pancake is greasy-good yet fluffy-light at the same time--allowing diners to confusingly devour a few before they realize how much they've had. Dim sum-style pork buns arrive with that traditional doughy consistency and taste like an inflated dumpling, while the popular fish in hot oil is one of the menu's best, a crunchy-fried fish filet, sliced and soaked in a sauce that's heavy-handed in hot pepper. The menu is written in both English and Chinese, which connoisseurs take as a very good sign.