Frankie B. Mandola's Catering

The Scene
Characterizing the State Grille as "just" a neighborhood restaurant is accurate--though it's important to note the neighborhood is nearby River Oaks, Houston's bastion of big money. Formerly the Confederate House, this clubby operation seems comfortably stuck in time. Wood paneling, soft lights and landscape paintings create an atmosphere of a more genteel period. While some may find this all a bit staid, the target audience--particularly the old school, old money crowd--embrace it as gracious and gratifying.

The Food
The Gulf Coast continental menu matches the traditional setting, with a predictable array of steaks and seafood and even a wedge of iceberg lettuce for real culinary conservatives. A generously thick veal chop is nicely prepared while crab-topped snapper arrives a tad dry and overcooked. One surprise is spinach salad cleverly graced with pan-fried oysters. For dessert, a classic bread pudding provides a hearty conclusion, but skip indifferent apple crisp.