Desert Star Playhouse

The Scene
Decorating the barn-like dining room are old-time Western photos, patriotic bunting and a mural featuring a covered wagon. Meals are served at picnic tables covered with red-and-white checkered tablecloths, while country-western music plays in the background. It's the kind of place where servers call you "hon" and conversation may be interrupted by raucous birthday celebrations.

The Food
From a 6-oz tenderloin to a 2-lb porterhouse, grilled steaks dominate the menu. Fork-tender barbecue--chicken, pork ribs, smoked sausage--comes with extra sauce for dipping and a warm washcloth to wipe your sticky fingers. Fresh sourdough bread, a cup of chunky homemade soup or a mixed green salad (try the surprisingly spicy chipotle ranch dressing), and cumin-accented ranch beans accompany each entree. Baked potatoes are extra and fries are not available. Dessert choices are limited to apple and razzleberry cobblers or a brownie sundae, served warm with vanilla bean ice cream.