The Scene
You get USDA prime, aged 21 to 28 days, and the "Here's what a porterhouse looks like" sales pitch in a deafeningly loud, two-floor dining area dominated by a giant plastic steer on a pedestal. Remember Crickets? It's the same location and the same clientele: tourists and martini-drinking, Financial District cigar smokers.
The Food
The steaks are both good and expensive at this steakhouse, which boasts the prices and pompous presentations of its culinary cousins, but none of the pretention. The shrimp cocktail offers more lettuce than shellfish, and the garden salad (greens, hard-boiled eggs, cheese, bacon bits, ranch dressing) is busy. Basic entrees--steaks, chops and grilled fish--are good. Portions are large; diners should split side dishes, like the excellent creamed spinach and one-pound baked potato. FYI: The dessert souffle must be ordered in advance.